My name is Peter
Zerche;living in Porsgrunn/Norway and have always been
interested in flora and fauna.The first acquaintance with
orchids was done by chance;a relative should buy some
flowers at a near-by shop in Celle/Germany.To my great
surprise entered we an orchid-nursery,and by the view of
all the countless plants in flower,I must say:a spark was
ignited.This event took place in early autum 1979,when
leaving the nursery after hours of admiration and
fascination;6 of my first Phalaenopsis-hybrids in
different colours and shapes were purchased.Unfortunately,the
pride didn`t last for long,one by one was lost in a few
month.Probably some had made the same experience with its
first orchid:lack of knowledge?!But the interest
for this nature-gems didn`t vanish by this incident,on
the contrary,some books were bought and read intense,I
joined the Swedish Orchid-Society and started to gather
my first informations and experiences.Due to the
opportunity in my flat to achieve proper conditions for orchids,I decided,a glass-case could be the best solution.Years
were passing by,but the success did not occcur,more
losses of orchids than expected became a trouble for me.I
suspected and getting aware that access of enough
light,humidity and fresh-air was the real reason.At least
and by advice from a professional orchid-breeder,all
remaining plants were moved to the window-sill in the
living-room.Since then my collection slowly increased and
now,I have some 321 orchids of Phalaenopsis: 268 are
species,12 prime-hybrids and the rest are hybrids,kept on
3 window-sill(1=south/west and 2=north/west direction)
.
To be successfull in breeding orchids on window-sill,demands,by
earlier experience,a lot more efforts to create the right
conditions they require.
1) LIGHT
While most of Phalaenopsis are
growing in shady surroundings,a roller-blind with black
mosquito-net
was
installed outside the south/west window,which disperse
the sun-light,protect the plants for dangerous rays and
extreme heat,but let pass-through enough light( **8-15000lux).In
the darker periode october-march,needs of an additional
light-source in all windows is a must.Here I use lamps
with 2pcs.36W cool-white + 1pcs. day-light fluorescent
tubes,0.70m above surface of leaf between 06.00-20.00(light
-values range from 2500-3000lux**).All
species are hanging on a curtain-rod and thus they
receive more ligth(ca.8000lux).The light-installation is
controlled by timer.(**lux is measure-unit for light-strength:1lumen/m2=1lux)
2) HUMIDITY
In orchids natural
habitat,humidity is far higher(over 90%)than I can
provide in my windows.To increase,I use plastic-container
filled with expanded clay pellets and water
 ,pots are placed on irongrids
 at the top of container.The created
moisture is measured by several hygrometers on different
levels of the window-area,the values are ranging from 45-60%at
day-and75-80% night-time,depending on temperatures and
conditions.No additional moisture is used by
spraying,because of water-gathering inside the leaf-hearts
and the risk of rot.
3) TEMPERATURES
In tropical areas,temperatures
are almost ranging from 25-39`C.Such warmth is impossible
in my apartment.As Phalaenopsis are rather adjustable
plants,it is distuingished by temperature-levels about 18`-22`,which
even humans are comfortable with(behind windows at
summertime and sunny days,this might raise to 30`C.
without harming the orchids).So far,the temperatures in
my home are not a problem.In addition,some 12V DC fans
are installed to grant sufficient fresh-air supply,to
achieve proper circulation and stabilzing,cooling down
temperatures in hot periodes.
In contrast to other soil-bounded
plants,orchids are the great exception.Most of
Phalaenopsis-species grow epiphytic,that means on growth
like trees and other vegetation.The thick and fleshy
roots absorbe moisture,nutrition and give support to fix
the plant on surface of the host,but they are not
parasites.I tried some different mineral-based potting
materials such as expanded clay pellets or a mixture of
rockwool(absorbent+repellent+perlite),the result of this
experiment gave me a great loss of orchids in a relativ
short time.Now,I am back again to organic stuff,using a
mixture of 90% medium-fine fir bark 
, 5%peat-fibre
 and 5%peat-moss
 plus charcoal,a reasonable cheap and
easy accessible material with good drainage and moist-keeping
capability.Pieces of foamed styropor
 at the pot-bottom has shown to be a well-suited
potting material
 for my
orchids to grow in and I am pretty satisfied by the
results I have achieved.Re-potting is done when decay of
the mix is occuring,or the pots becomes to small of too
much roots.I have a golden rule:to change the potting
material at least every 3.year.Watering is done by needs
and depending on temperatures and evaporation,a moderate
water-supply is better than too much and too often.Orchids
don`t like extreme wet conditions,most may fade,caused by
over-watering and rot of roots.Even orchids need some
nutrition,but we have to keep in mind that they are low-feeding
plants.In their natural habitat,they have to live on,what
is given to them by nature.I use a special designed
orchid-fertilizer with a formula N-P-P 20-10-20**plus
minerals and micronutrients(**Nitrogen-Phosphoric Acid-Potash).1
tablespoon is dissolved in 5ltr. rain-water and given once
a month during growing-season(march-september).In
all,only rain-water is used for my plants,our drinking-water
may have contents of lime or chlorine.
At the end,I would like to emphasize that the
mentioned arrangements,observations and facts are based
upon my own experiences and represent my conditions of
breeding orchids.I am rather convinced that the above
terms not necessarily are the best or adequate for other
orchid-friends.
Thank You very
much for Your visit and wishing You GOOD LUCK and SUCCESS
with Your orchids.
Should You have some
comments,contributions e.t.c please feel free to send an e-mail
or write a message in my guestbook
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